Oregon - Coast to the Desert - Alis volat propriis - She flies with her own wings

Oregon Dunes, the coast road and Umpqua Lighthouse

We left Crescent City Sunday morning and headed north. It didn't take long to leave California behind us and enter the Beaver State. It's just a few short miles into Oregon from Smith river. It was another beautiful day, sunny and warm.

The Umpqua Lighthouse

 We put in a short day only going to the Umpqua Lighthouse Campground outside Reedsport. It's about 160 miles. Geezer miles, we set up the trailer and drove into Reedsport to get some laundry done. I've never seen a bigger rip-off laundromat than the one there. Their cheapest machines were $4.00 a load and their triple loaders were $5.35. We needed two of the triple loaders or almost doule what we had paid in Joshua California when we went to the laundry there. They had another little scam too. You could not put money into the machines. They had a machine where you would put you money to load up a reader card. The machine only took $1.00 $5.00 or $20.00 bills and it cost you .45 to buy the card. The was no refund so you had to figure out almost exactly what you needed to do you laundry. Plus they had odd amounts on the machines like $5.35 so if you had .65 left you just lost it. I hope we don't run into another one of those somewhere.
 The campground was nice and not terrible for expensive although the further north we go the more the campground cost on average. Also it gets harder and harder to book a night. They want reservations. Maybe after the 4th of July it will get better, at least I hope it does.
  We liked the beach area here. The sand dunes come down to the water and are tree covered in many places.

 Umpqua Lighthouse from the beach road

 Dunes

California Gull Larus californicus 

Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica

Inland to Veneta and Fern Ridge Lake

We only stayed two days at the Umpqua Lighthouse Campground before heading up the coast and then inland a ways to the area around Eugene. Years ago when we lived in Washington we would come to Eugene to see the yearly Grateful Dead concerts at Autzen Stadium. The area is beautiful, drier than Washington and hotter than the coast. Ideal conditions for concerts in the summer. 

 As we left the coast and crossed the first mountains the temps climbed nicely. It was 61' when we turned up from the coast. Ten miles up the road it had already gone up to 77'. 

 Denise had found a campground near the town of Veneta on the shore of Fern Ridge Lake. We had no reservation but it being mid-week we got in without issues. 

 We have an old dear friend who lives in the area so when we got setup I tried to give her a call. No service! So we drove back into Veneta to give Kitty a call. I had texted her a couple of days earlier and told her we would be in the area. I got a hold of Kitty and she said she would come out to see us at the campground. 

 The years melted away as we sat outside under the awning catching each other up on things we had done over the years. We reminisced about the past, it was a delightful time getting together. Her husband Tim came by after he got done with work and we got to meet him. We set up a meet for the next day at their place and they went back and we went to sleep.

 The next morning we went into Eugene to get a replacement tire for the trailer. When we had the blowouts at the beginning of the trip I had put the spare on. It was new so I didn't replace it when we got new ones for the rest of the rims. When we were in Umpqua Lighthouse campground I noticed that it was worn down to the cords on the back side. It was about to blow. Only 3000 miles about what the others had had when they blew out. Cheap tires that come with trailers. If I had known I would have insisted that they put good tires on before we purchased it. Never again. I had changed the tire before we left Umpqua so now we just needed a new tire mounted as a spare.

 After they got the tire mounted for us I threw it in the back of the truck and we went back to the campground to get Pata before heading over to Kitty and Tim's house. They live out in the country a few miles out out of the town of Blatchly. They have a little piece of paradise with nice gardens, a creek and they back up to BLM land that they have made hiking trails on. We took a walk in the woods behind the house. It was very soothing, the dogs came along too but I kept Pata on the leash. I don't quite trust her with other dogs. She clearly wanted to play with them but after Bonnie I just don't know. 

 We passed the afternoon talking and in the evening went to Deadwood to have dinner. After we returned it was time to head back to camp. I didn't want to drive the windy mountain roads after dark. 

 Kitty Stephens with Danny the donkey

   Tim  Stephens 

Over the Cascades and on to Hermistion

 The next morning we again packed up and headed out. The day before there had been thunderstorms east of us on the western slope of the Cascades. The day now was still overcast and cooler than it had been. We went west up the pass over the Cascades to Sisters Oregon at the foot of the mountains on the east side. We stopped long enough to take some photos of the mountains before heading on to our final stop for the night Hermiston Oregon.

 Mt. Washington from the viewpoint above Suttle Lake

 Northern Flicker

The three Sisters

The three Sisters close up and one by one.

 

This time as we climbed up and over Santiam Pass  a 4,817-foot pass the temperatures spiked up to 95'. The east side of the Cascades is hot and dry. The Great Basin is a huge heart-shaped area that covers parts of six western states. We had been on the western edge of it in California at Mono lake, we were now at the uppermost part of the largest desert in the United States. It's nice to look out at but I wouldn't want to live in this desert. It's mainly a shrub desert defined by the extent of characteristic plant species, predominantly sagebrush and western juniper. I prefer desert with cacti and yucca.

 The drive up Hwy 395 is easy except for the gusty winds that are prevalent in this environment. I had to get used to driving at the posted speed again. California requires trailer to not exceed 55 mph at any time. I generally don't go any faster than 65 but I had to readjust to this again.

 We had Hermiston as a destination in order to visit another friend. A friend we had never met except on Facebook. Denise and Guyla had connected through a support group and I became friend with her when Denise had her heart attack. Guyla was a rock who helped me get through the stress of the time. We stayed the night at a campground near the Columbia river called Hat Rock. It was a private RV park but was OK to stay in for a night. The lots were grassy and had trees alongside of them. They had bathrooms and showers and some very weak WIFI which I couldn't get to work at all until the morning. We had no phone service. We were only able to get a site for one night so the next day we hitched up the trailer and drove to Hermiston to see Guyla. We left the animals in the truck because we were parked on the curb in front of a house and didn't want to transfer them to the trailer. So we had a short but pleasant visit with Guyla. She was just the way I thought she was, a truly delightful person who was great to talk to. She came out to the truck to see the animals and then we left. Across the Columbia river and into Washington State.

Me, Guyla and Denise in the obligatory selfie. 

The time in Oregon was brief. It seemed like we just breezed through leaving too much unseen. I guess we will have to come back this way again.

We six to the Northern California Coast and Redwoods

Northern California and the old growth redwood forest. 

Packing up the trailer and loading the truck to move to the next place has now become routine. We can be on the road in 30 minutes or so. We got an early start when we left Gerstle Cove and the morning was beautiful. North of Sea Ranch the road becomes a little less twisty and the straight sections are a little bit longer so you can make better time with less strain.  

The animals are pretty much settled into the routine also. Truck time means new sights and smells. For the most part they travel well but like kids they have their moments. Ziggy and Peanut perch themselves on the center console between us and look out the windows until Ziggy gets bored, he will then climb down on the floor at Denise’s feet where he will invariably get wrapped up in the tangle of wires that go to cell phones and tablets and the GPS unit. Then Peanut will start mewing and Kazumba will mumble and whistle so that she is part of the action. The only quiet one is Pata. She’s usually good until we need to talk to a person at the fee station and then she will pipe in with a bark or two.  

As you progress up the coast eventually highway one turns inland to meet up with highway 101. When it does that you climb over the coast range on a narrow winding road that takes you up to around 4000 feet before you wind down the pass to the town of Legget where the two highways join for the rest of the way to Oregon. 

As we cruised through the forest I caught a glimpse of a large brown 🐦 flying through the trees. When we cleared the group of trees I glanced over again in time to see a hawk land on a fence post with a snake dangling from his beak. There was no pull off of course so one for the memory bank but no photo. 

 We settled on a campground in the Del Norte Coast Redwoods State Park, Mill Creek campground. It's run by federal and state so with the federal involvement we pay half price. Great deal in a nice campground. It's down more than six hundred feet in elevation from the highway to the campground. There are no old growth trees here but it's still nice. The stumps of the Ancients are all around still giving life to new growth by providing a foothold for many different plants. Mother stumps we called them in Washington.

An old growth log alive with ferns and other plants

 We got into the campground late in the afternoon but with plenty of time to get set up and cook up dinner before sunset. There was not phone or internet in the campground but we did have power and water so all was good. 

 The damp and cold was getting to us though. I awoke in the middle of the night with a sore throat and Denise had been feeling it also for a couple of days. Summer colds are the worst, I hate feeling sick any time but when the weather is nice and people are out having fun it's no time to be hacking and coughing.
 Even deep in the valley sunlight came early. Before dawn I could hear the birds starting their morning songs. I was awake at 4:00am and out of bed by 4:30 making coffee and listening to the sounds of the redwood forest coming to life. Denise went into Crescent City to make some phone calls and do shopping. I wanted to just be around the camp for the day and not drive anywhere so I got to stay behind. I walked around the camp checking out the sights there.   I could hear warblers singing in the treetops but none came down to feed. I would catch occasional glimpses for birds flying but way up high except for the usual camp scavengers like blue jays there were no birds to be seen.
 I did find some monkey flowers blooming in a small creek so I got out Denise's extension tubes and took a couple of photos. They are lovely little blooms.

Tooth-leaved Monkeyflower Mimulus dentatus

 

  California Manroot Marah fabacea

 I got bored with the campgound sights and decided to walk up the road to the entrance station a mile up the mountain. There were some  rhododendrons blooming along the road so I thought to photograph them and maybe meet up with Denise somewhere along the road. There were more monkey flowers along the road as well as cinquefoil and other wildflowers. I stopped at a place to shoot some flowers and I caught a flash of yellow on a bird as it flew into some salmon berry bushes. It then flew up into a tree above me but where I could see that it was a Wilson's warbler. Now I knew at least one of the warblers that was singing in the treetops in the morning. It was calling and I could hear others answering but never did see any more of them.

 A Columbian black-tailed deer cutting through the campground

 Salmon berries are beginning to get ripe

 Wilson's warbler hiding in the salmon berries

 

 Rhododendrons in the forest

  Western Wild Ginger Asarum caudatum. It's hard to see but this plant is blooming. The flower is brown

  Thimbleberry Rubus parviflorus

When I got to the fee station the ranger saw the camera and told me that there was a Clintonia blooming along the nature loop. She said it was rare to see them bloom and described them to me. I told her that it sounded like the flowers we had seen blooming down the coast at the Kruse Rhododendron reserve but went to have a look see. It was the same as what we had seen. 

 After walking the half mile nature loop I found that it connected with a trail I had seen down the road near the campground. I thought it said .3 mile so I went on it thinking it would take me out to the park road. After some time walking and not seeing the road I realized it was going to be a longer walk. I just kept going as it was heading in the general direction of the campground there was a closed trail and I was hoping that I hadn't inadvertently gotten onto it. The trail went up and down through the forest and was really beautiful. Mossy trees and the understory filled with ferns and berries of different kinds. Little creeks and brooks running through it. At one point a large tree had fallen across the path taking its roots with it as it fell. The root mass was across the path. I climbed up and around it and continued on my way. Finally I came upon a sign the indicated the campground was .2 miles ahead and that the trail behind me went 1.8 miles. So it was considerably longer than walking the road but much more pleasant for scenery. 
 When I got back to the camp Denise had already returned. 
 We went to Crescent city docks to look at the seals and sea lions. Plus to take Pata for a walk on the beach where we found sand dollars whole, something that is rare in Texas.

 Miss Pata enjoying her walk

 Denise and Pata on the beach at Crescent City

 Battery Point lighthouse. In service since 1855. The lighthouse is only accessible for visits at low tide.

 A sea lion

 
 

Harbor seals on the floats in the cove.

 

 

 

 

The reason we chose Crescent City was Denise's niece Larissa and her family live there. We visited with them at their house and went there for dinner one night. So nice to finally meet all of them. We had never met before and they were fun friendly and great people to be around. Scott, Risa's husband, the kids Miranda, Layla and Jordan were all enjoyable.

 Scott and Layla

 Risa and Denise

 The group - Layla, Scott, Risa, Denise and Jordan. Unfortunately Miranda had to work so we didn't get her in the pictures.

 Scott grew some hair with a little help from Layla

 Scott and Risa are trying to sell their house and move to a warmer climate inland. We wish them the best and hope their desires are met. We'll see ya later Mackey's it was great to finally meet you!

That was the end of this chapter and we were chugging up the coast to Oregon the next morning.

 

Rhodies and Redwoods and the California Coast -

 Farewell to Rio Vista

On Monday morning the 11th of June we packed up again. Hitched up the trailer and bid a fond adieu to Rio Vista. We had no clear destination ahead or way to get there. We just began heading towards Highway 101 via Vallejo and hwy 37 which goes past Mare Island and the top of San Pablo bay. It was a nice clear day and traffic while heavy wasn't terrible.
 I got off of 101 in Petaluma and began heading for the coast. We were in familiar territory and memories came flooding back as we passed places we had know in the past. A lot of the roads in California have remained the same over the years, two lane narrow winding mountain roads that can be dangerous if you drive too fast. I try to pull over when there is a big enough pull off so that the drivers behind don't get frustrated and do something stupid. I don't go real fast when pulling that trailer.
 The road we took eventually gets to the Russian River and winds along through the redwoods giving occasional peek a boo views of the river. Forestville, Rio Nido, Gurneville, Monte Rio and Cazadero. Little towns build initially for logging, now tourist spots. This was my old stomping grounds and the first place I lived when moving to California. I lived on the Russian River outside of Forestville in a schoolbus at a nude beach. Memories! Wow the time flies by.
 Soon we went through Jenner by the sea and turned the corner onto Hwy 1, the coast highway. It was incredible. A clear sunny warm day on the coast. I turned into the first turnoff overlooking the Pacific ocean and the Russian River emptying into it. What a sight! We couldn't have had a better day for it.

Hello to the Pacific ocean

 In the foreground is the Russian River as it egresses into the Pacific

Looking to the west and north. Hwy 1 winds along the cliffs

We stopped for awhile just taking in the view and taking some photo's of the area. There's a large sandbar at the mouth of the river and harbor seals use it as a birthing beach. There were more than a hundred of so seals lazing on the banks. You can count them if you wish. I didn't. 

 Harbor seals lining the banks of the sandbar behind the breakwater

Zoomed in with the telephoto lens. One of the youngsters is swimming in the water.

It was still early in the day but we didn't go far up the coast before looking for a spot to camp for a couple of days. We went to Salt Beach Park to the Gertsle Cove campgound and got a campsite for two nights. We were away from phone signals and the wifi wasn't coming in so after setting up and getting the animals settled in the trailer we took the truck and backtracked down the road to a hotel and restaurant. We sat at the bar overlooking the ocean and I had a beer while Denise used their wifi to book us some reservation up the coast near Crescent City. The Federal parks have a 48 hours wait for reservations in busy parks so we had to get them now. It's difficult sometimes to find a spot open with consecutive days. We would be staying 4 days, Denise was able to find a handicap site in Mill Creek Campground so we were set. We headed back to Gertsle Cove stopping along the way to photograph wildflowers.

 Lily

 This old stump looked cool weathering on the roadside.

 Orange bush monkey flowers

  Coast Lily Lilium maritimum

 Rhododendron

 A California Quail

 We had a delightful two days at Gerstle Cove. In the afternoon the wind at the beach is blowing at near hurricane force but as soon as the sun sets and it begins to cool the wind dies down. In the morning it's dead calm until afternoon. I took Pata out first thing in the morning and we took the trail leading down from the campground to the beach. We not exactly beach. You are on the cliffs above the ocean. Its a tough scramble down the rocks to get to beach in most places. A younger me would have been down there without a care but the present me was content to walk the edges and look from the top. Trying to get down with a camera and a dog on a leash was not a good option. We got to the meadows before the sun had crested the mountain. It was cool and the shadows were deep but there was only light fog and the sky was clear. What a nice morning for a walk on the cliffs.

 The surf crashes against the rocks

 The succulents were just about to bloom.

 Gerstle Cove still in the shadows. The building on the cliff is the visitor's center. It was not open during the days that we were there.

 If you did make it down the cliff there's not much of a beach in most places

 The meadow still in shadow. The campground sits high above in the trees at the top.

A Columbian Black Tailed deer feeding in the meadow.

After Pata and I returned to the trailer we had breakfast and I drove Denise down to the cliffs to enjoy the views before the winds returned.

 Just north of the campground is the Kruse Rhododendron State Reserve. It's situated in the redwoods and takes you up the mountain past stands of trees and at this time of year rhododendrons in bloom. It's an awesome sight. There are various wildflowers blooming and butterflies flit from flower to flower. We spent a delightful couple of hours traversing the park before coming out to a road the led back to Cazadero. We turned around and went back through the park, it was the shorter route.

 Andrew's Clintonia a flower in the lily family

 Rhododendrons blooming high above under the story of trees

 Salal

 Douglas Iris

 Coastal Lily

 California Sister

 This house was near the end of the road. The road goes right through the property. On the right side of the road was a riding stable and arena.

Acorn woodpecker

The stay at the coast was pleasant and relaxing and as usual ended all too soon. But there are new roads to explore and new places to see. I was amazed to find out that in all her years growing up in California Denise had never been up the coast past Jenner. I'm glad she finally got to see it. Onward to the next destination.